Unearthed Secrets: 5 Little-Known Facts About Almeria

Picture yourself basking in the warm Mediterranean sun, gazing at the stunning vistas of southern Spain. That’s the magic of Almeria. But hold on, there’s more to this place than meets the eye. Beyond the postcard-perfect scenes lies a treasure trove of secrets and stories that are dying to be told.

So, get ready to go on an adventure with us as we uncover the lesser-known side of Almeria. We’re diving into the intriguing tales that often hide in the shadows. From a pair of Belgian adventurers stumbling upon archaeological wonders to John Lennon’s surprising connection with the city and a chilling Cold War incident. And don’t forget the enduring legacy of Federico García Lorca’s masterpiece, “Bodas de Sangre” (Blood Wedding).

Almeria is like a captivating storybook waiting to be explored, and we’re turning the pages to reveal its hidden gems. So, join us as we embark on this journey to unearth the secrets of Almeria, where every twist and turn brings a new discovery and every stone whispers its unique tale.

Fact 1: The Belgian Explorers

In the 1880s, Almeria’s story took an unexpected turn when two Belgian mining engineers, the Siret brothers – Henri and Louis, became amateur archaeologists. They embarked on an excavation adventure at Los Millares, a Copper Age site just outside the city. Their remarkable discoveries, which include ceramics, tools, and jewelry, are now showcased in a state-of-the-art archaeological museum. This museum not only highlights their contributions but also commemorates their dedication to self-funded excavation work. Los Millares, dating back to 2700 BC, is now considered one of Spain’s most significant archaeological sites. Visitors can explore the 47-acre prehistoric settlement, complete with defensive walls, stone dwellings, a foundry, and a necropolis housing over 100 tombs. For history enthusiasts, the site itself is open for exploration, offering a glimpse into Almeria’s ancient past.

Fact 2: John Lennon and Strawberry Fields Forever

Venture into the enchanting world of music and cinema as we uncover the surprising connection between Almeria and one of the Beatles’ most iconic songs, “Strawberry Fields Forever.” Our journey takes us back to 1966 when the enigmatic John Lennon, a legend of the Beatles, found himself in Almeria for the filming of “How I Won the War.”

Picture Almeria in the autumn of ’66, where Lennon temporarily exchanged the bustling streets of London for the tranquil Mediterranean coast. Dive into the intriguing details of his stay, discovering the places he frequented and the moments that led to the creation of this timeless song.

Lennon’s muse was none other than the picturesque landscape of Almeria itself. As he roamed the city’s historic streets, nestled between ancient buildings and cobblestone lanes, he couldn’t help but be inspired. It was here that the melodic fragments of “Strawberry Fields Forever” began to take shape.

The song’s evocative lyrics and dreamy melody were born in this Spanish haven. As you explore Almeria, you’ll find echoes of Lennon’s creativity at every turn, where the city’s charm and his artistic genius converged to produce a piece of musical history that continues to enchant the world.

Fact 3: 1966: The Palomares Hydrogen Bomb Incident – A Near Miss

In the skies over the Spanish coast in 1966, a chilling drama unfolded that could have changed history. It all began when a U.S. Air Force B-52 bomber collided with its refueling tanker jet at a staggering 31,000 feet. The collision triggered a catastrophic explosion that obliterated the tanker, claiming the lives of all four crew members.

The B-52, torn asunder, unleashed an even more terrifying payload – four Type B28RI hydrogen bombs, each armed with a devastating 1.45-megaton warhead. Three of these deadly devices plummeted to the earth near the peaceful fishing village of Palomares, while the fourth plunged into the unforgiving embrace of the Mediterranean Sea.

Tragically, three of the seven crew members aboard the B-52 lost their lives in this catastrophic event, forever known as the Palomares hydrogen bomb incident.

Despite the immense destruction, there was no nuclear apocalypse. However, a different peril reared its head – radioactive contamination. Plutonium, a radioactive element, blanketed an area of more than 2 square kilometers. To mitigate this danger, approximately 1,750 tons of contaminated earth were carefully excavated and transported to the United States for safe disposal.

The fourth bomb, the one that found itself submerged in the sea, vanished without a trace, sparking an intense search effort led by the United States. Fearing that the Soviet Union might attempt to recover it, the race to find the missing bomb became a matter of utmost urgency.

Enter Francisco Simo Orts, a local fisherman who had witnessed the bomb’s plunge into the Mediterranean waters. He became a crucial ally to the U.S. Navy in their quest to locate the missing weapon. Simo Orts’ firsthand account laid the foundation for their search operation.

After 80 days of tireless searching, the elusive bomb was finally located. In a surprising turn of events, Simo Orts, backed by legal counsel, arrived in New York City, demanding a salvage award as stipulated by maritime law.

The U.S. Secretary of Defense appraised the bomb’s value at a staggering $2 billion. Simo Orts, in keeping with maritime traditions, requested 1 percent of that value, a sum of $20 million. After a series of negotiations, the Air Force ultimately reached an undisclosed settlement with Simo Orts, bringing a remarkable chapter of this high-stakes, real-life thriller to a close.

Fact 4: Cortijo del Fraile – Inspiring Lorca’s “Bodas de Sangre” and More

Cortijo del Fraile stands as one of the most captivating structures within the Cabo de Gata Natural Park, owing to its architectural beauty and the tragic events that unfolded within its walls. This rural estate represents the quintessential grand or manorial cortijo, a striking contrast to the smaller and more common cortijos prevalent in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park. Designated as a Cultural Heritage Site, it is a single-story building with rooms arranged around a central courtyard. It boasts a chapel, a burial crypt, ovens, stables, pigsties, and a remarkably well-preserved cistern.

Constructed by Dominican friars in the 18th century, it transitioned into private ownership in 1836 during the process of desamortización, which involved the expropriation of properties from religious orders. Subsequently, the estate was utilized for agricultural purposes, segregating the living quarters of the landowners from those of the laborers. As the landowners sought more profitable lands, they abandoned the estate, leaving it under the care of a contracted sharecropper.

It was this sharecropper who, in 1928, arranged the marriage of his daughter, Francisca Cañadas, known as “Paca la Coja.” This union, while initially agreed upon, culminated in tragedy. These events came to be known as the “Crimen de Níjar,” and it was not long before Federico García Lorca, inspired by this incident, crafted his masterpiece, “Blood Wedding” (“Bodas de Sangre”).

Lorca’s work reflects intense emotions and passions but also sheds light on the harsh living conditions of its characters within an environment marked by scarcity and isolation from other population centers and towns—a constant reality for the inhabitants of this region throughout the centuries. The Almerian writer Carmen de Burgos also drew inspiration from these events for her novel, “Puñal de Claveles.”

Cortijo del Fraile, as depicted in the photographs, bears the marks of neglect and ruin. While some may find this characteristic charming, there are photographic movements dedicated to capturing the nostalgic aura of abandoned buildings and places. Enthusiasts of this movement will discover similar examples in the abandoned gold mines or the partially dilapidated miner’s houses of Rodalquilar, all within the same vicinity. However, many believe that it should be rehabilitated promptly to preserve its architectural value and unique history. In any case, we recommend a visit to witness the striking juxtaposition it forms with the surrounding landscape. You can embark on a hiking route that begins at this location, offering a picturesque journey through other cortijadas.

Cortijo del Fraile and its surroundings have served as a natural film set for numerous movies, with the most renowned being Sergio Leone’s “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” (“El Bueno, El Feo y El Malo”). This cinematic history adds an extra layer of intrigue to this already fascinating location.

Fact 5: Los Refugios de la Guerra Civil – A Hidden World Beneath Almeria

Beneath the charming streets of Almeria lies a concealed world that narrates a poignant chapter in Spain’s history—the Civil War Shelters, or “Los Refugios de la Guerra Civil.” These underground shelters were constructed during the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s to shield the city’s residents from relentless bombing campaigns.

Carved out of Almeria’s soft rock, these shelters form an intricate network extending over a mile beneath the historic center. They served as a sanctuary for thousands of people during the darkest days of the war. Today, visitors can explore these remarkable tunnels, offering a somber glimpse into the hardships faced by civilians during wartime.

These shelters stand as a testament to the resilience and fortitude of Almeria’s people during one of Spain’s most tumultuous periods. As you wander through these subterranean passages, you can’t help but be touched by the bravery of those who sought refuge here.

Los Refugios de la Guerra Civil, located in the city of Almeria, Spain, were born in response to the 52 air and sea bombardments suffered by the population, which resulted in a total of 754 bombs during the Spanish Civil War. This compelled the construction of extensive underground shelters, totaling over 4 kilometers in length, equipped with an operating room, and capable of housing around 40,000 city inhabitants at that time.

These shelters were designed by local architect Guillermo Langle Rubio, with the assistance of mining engineer Carlos Fernández Celaya and civil engineer José Fornieles. They have become one of the most significant and well-preserved underground shelter systems in Europe. These refuges endured the city’s most significant attack in its entire history—the Bombing of Almeria—and have retained their historical importance and architectural significance.

Almeria, with its stunning landscapes, cinematic history, and intriguing hidden gems, has more to offer than meets the eye. From the Belgian explorers unearthing ancient secrets to John Lennon’s musical inspiration, from the dramatic events of the 1966 Palomares B-52 crash to the enduring legacy of “Boda de Sangre,” and the underground refuge of “Los Refugios de la Guerra Civil,” Almeria’s rich tapestry of history and culture continues to captivate and inspire. As you explore this enchanting city, remember that its past is alive with untold stories waiting to be discovered.